I've always loved the water and playing in the ocean and I thought I would love surfing. I imagined myself tearing up some 6 foot waves for hours with no problem.
The truth is, surfing is a major workout and 3 foot tall waves look huge when you get out in the ocean with them. So, I didn't tear up any 6 foot waves and my arms were exhausted about about an hour of paddling!
|Look at the size of that wave!|
I'm pumped that I stood up on my board and I had a great time surfing. I would absolutely do it again!
The hardest part of surfing was getting out there. The water is rough and cold so once I got over that shock, it was really fun.
I surfed for one afternoon and one morning. Can you believe there's a place in the USA that you can surf in February (that's not Hawaii)? How great is that!?